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Philippe Estiot, Martine Lunder and Marije Mellegees are three exchange
students from France, Holland and Norway. They are working with a UNHCR
programme in Kuala Lumpur and expect to be in the country for six months.
When so much in the modern world has an appearance of the impermanent
and transient, there is certain uniqueness about the prospect of travelling
to a 130 million-year-old-rainforest. After a short period in Malaysia
- with most of that time spent in the capital Kuala Lumpur - Maria, Philippe
and I were determined that we should immerse ourselves in what is generally
regarded as 'the oldest rainforest in the world.'
Short break arranged, we met in the inauspicious downstairs surroundings
of a central Kuala Lumpur hotel, early on a Saturday morning, to begin
our journey to Taman Negara.
The sky looked rather ominous as we travelled out of the city. Heading
east, we climbed the escarpment that leads to Genting,
Kuantan and the east coast and…relaxed. Views of the capital and the
Twin Towers faded
into the distance.
Two hours later, we arrived at the embarkation point for the first
part of our adventure. Tembeling jetty is a busy transit
point for the journey up river to Taman Negara. Formalities with the
Park Office and Mutiara Resort soon completed, we enjoyed a straightforward
lunch of fried rice and lime-juice The active river continues in the
background. Boats arrive and depart, struggling with the current in
a wide river, swollen by seasonal rains and churning a deep, coffee
colour.
Soon we were called to our waiting boat. Sitting low in the water,
the crafts feel surprisingly stable and comfortable, but it was the
darkening sky that drew concerned glances from crew and passengers alike.
Sure enough, as we departed, the first drops of rain began to fall;
a pattern that was to repeat itself time and time again over our four
days in the forest.
But this was the rainforest, right? What should we expect?
The three hour river journey against the current is one of the highlights
of the trip. From embarkation at Tembeling, the river slowly narrows.
Trees crowd the banks, fishermen half-immersed in water relay nets.
Brilliantine blue kingfishers conduct their own darting fishing exercise,
before returning to boughs high above the water.
The rain falls and we continue, silent in contemplation of the unfolding
splendour. The boatman skilfully navigated his way forward, avoiding
sandier shallows and the many boughs and branches that appear on the
surface. Seemingly, as anxious to move downstream, as we are to move up.
Wet and a little bit overawed by sights and sounds, we quickly located
our comfortable chalets nestling amongst the trees and after shower and
change of clothing, headed to the restaurant for some reviving food.
It was all so different from our experiences in Kuala Lumpur. A cacophony
of sounds lulled us into a restful sleep that had us waking early the next
morning ready for some exploration, barely concerned that it was (you’ve
guessed it) still raining! After a substantive buffet breakfast, we donned
wet weather clothing and decided to acclimatise with a visit to a well known
vantage point, only 4km away.
A clearly signed path from the resort led us into a strange, ethereal
world of mist, huge trees and slippery roots. Many of the trees were labelled
and we were overwhelmed by the variety of foliage dripping with moisture but
so luxuriant and ‘alive’ that you could not fail to be impressed and invigorated. |